Late June saw the 30th Chapitre of the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin. The tasting was divided into three brackets, a look at 2011 whites followed by a look at 2011 red wines and then 2006 reds making an intriguing comparison with the 2011 reds.
I have always loved the 2011 white burgundies and this tasting further confirmed my thoughts. The vintage is characterised with its pronounced minerality, drive and precision. The 2011 wines have high acidity and are lively. Four years on now though, they are beginning to broaden out and starting to really sing. The three wines we tasted were;
Domaine Leflaive Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon 2011
Château de Puligny Montrachet, Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Folatieres 2011
Domaine Jacques Carillon Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Canet 2011
The Lefalive was fantastic, pure, precise and driven, whilst considered a ‘lesser’ 1er Cru in these great hands it really sang. The Château de Puligny Montrachet was much broader, the Domaine Jacques Carillon showed a lighter touch with an incredible length.
Next up were the 2011 reds. 2011 was a vintage that was doomed not matter what the quality. The 2009 and 2010 vintages such a great pair, cellars were stocked of those excellent years. The 2011 red wines should not be overlooked; these are very elegant, bright wines that are very attractive. 2011 is an unrated vintage that right now is overall very fragrant and gentle. The three wines we tasted were;
Domaine Nicholas Rossignol, Volnay, 1er Cru, Caillerets 2011
Domaine Bruno Clavalier, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Combe d’Orveau 2011
Domaine Henri Boillot, Pommard, 1er Cru Ruguiens 2011
The Rossignol first up was a softly touched volnay, supple with gorgeous red fruits, very lively. The Bruno Clavallier was very forward and perfumed. It jumped out of the glass, generous, lovely and so enjoyable right now. The Henri Bollot was everything you expect from Pommard, particularly Ruguiens, bold, structured, grippy and stunning.
Finally, the 2006 reds, another underrated vintage, 2005 were so incredible, like the 2011, these wines were somewhat overlooked. Nine years on, they are excellent right now. The three wines we tasted were;
Domaine Marquis d’Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Callerets 2006
Domaine Bruno Clavallier Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Combe d’Orveau 2006
Domaine Hubert de Montille Pommard 1er Cru Rugiens 2006
Overall these were very impressive; I didn’t enjoy them as much as the charm of the 2011 wines now, though they were very enjoyable wines for sure. The Marquis d’Angerville was bold and tight, the Clavallier was perfumed and generous, the Montille was great, bold, tight and very well structured.